The header button and the settings row both raised a fullScreenCover to
pick a context; a Menu offers the same rows in place for one click,
matching the pickers elsewhere in Settings. With every presentation now
a menu, the picker view and the rows' inMenu flag had nothing left to
serve. The subscriptions header also cedes its width to the account
name: the view-options button keeps only its icon, since two full
titles wrapped into tall two-line lozenges in the tvOS sidebar.